Summer on Iveragh

Breeding Birds
Summer Flora
Insect Activity
Marine Life
Summer Walks

With the long hours of daylight, the buzzing activity of animals making the best of the fine weather, milder sea temperatures, and the bursts of colour across the hills and hedgerows, summer on Iveragh is idyllic. Peak tourist season is in July and August. The narrow roads and small villages and beaches can become quite crowded then. While the weather will usually make sure that not every day is a picture postcard of blue skies and sparkling seas, it’s certainly worth putting up with the mist because when the sun does come out, all the locals will agree that there’s nowhere nicer in the world!

The vibrant combination of heathers and gorse in bloom across the hills is a sure sign of high summer.

1. Breeding Birds

Terns, like this Sandwich Tern at Derrynane, are among the many summer breeders along the coast of Iveragh.

The longer days and warmer weather of summer brings an extraordinary amount of activity to the Iveragh Peninsula. Nowhere is this clearer than in our breeding birds, whether they are resident (present throughout the year) or migratory species (present for part of the year). Of course, it is no accident that the bird breeding season revolves around summer, given the increased availability of food (seeds, berries, invertebrates, fish) with which to feed their young. Below, you will see some of the peculiar breeding habits of Iveragh’s bird life. When birdwatching, always remember to avoid disturbing birds, their habitats or nests. See our ‘things to know before you go’ for more tips on how best to respect the local environment and the wildlife that calls it home. If you’re new to birdwatching, have a look at our tips for identifying birds.

Seabirds

Isolated islands and coastal cliffs are the preferred breeding sites for the tens of thousands of seabirds that return to Iveragh each summer. Their nesting habits in these precarious locations are utterly astonishing. The most famous examples come from the Skellig Islands, 11km from Iveragh’s coastline, where immense numbers of Gannets (Gainéad), Kittiwakes (Saidhbhéar), Fulmars (Fulmaire), Guillemots (Foracha) and Razorbills (Crosán) nest on narrow ledges along the cliffs and sheer rock faces. Storm Petrels (Guairdeall), Puffins (Puifín) and Manx Shearwaters (Cánóg Dhubh), on the other hand, nest within the burrows and rock crevices that are spread throughout the island.

Little Skellig is filled with the clamour of breeding gannets in summer. Razorbills, kittiwakes, and puffins arrive in spring and spend the summer raising chicks on Iveragh’s coast.

The Skellig Islands correctly receive much attention as one of Ireland’s most important seabird breeding sites and as a designated ‘Special Protection Area’ (SPA) for the species listed above. However, the Iveragh Peninsula’s value to seabirds is even greater than the Skellig Islands alone! Puffin Island, Deenish Island and Scariff Island are also designated as SPAs for their importance to the same breeding birds as the Skellig Islands, as well as the Lesser Black-backed Gull (Droimneach Beag) and Arctic Tern (Geabhróg Artach). From Rossbeigh on Iveragh’s north coast to Lamb’s Head in the southwest of the peninsula, Iveragh’s coastal cliffs and adjacent habitats host nationally important populations of Peregrine Falcon (Fabhcún Gorm), Red-billed Chough (Cág Cosdearg), Fulmar (Fulmaire), Kittiwake (Saidhbhéar) and Guillemot (Foracha).

Iveragh hosts important breeding populations of birds such as the red-billed chough and the fulmar on its coastal cliffs.

Buildings

Built structures, such as ruins, buildings, bridges and stone walls are also favoured breeding sites for many interesting birds. Each spring, Northern Wheatears (Clochrán) return to breed in Iveragh following their migration from Africa. They often opt to nest in natural rock crevices or in the stone-facing of walls or ruins in coastal areas of Iveragh. Grey Wagtails (Glasóg Liath) are a resident species with similar nesting habits to wheatears. However, they tend to nest near fast-flowing streams (often under bridges), as these waterways are their preferred hunting grounds. Kestrels (Pocaire Gaoithe), Jackdaws (Cág), Starlings (Druid), Swallows (Fáinleog) and Martins (Gabhlán Binne) nest in ruins, chimney pots, buildings and bridges scattered throughout the Iveragh Peninsula.

Wheatears, grey wagtails, and kestrels all make nests in stonework.

Woodland and Hedgerows

Iveragh’s native woodlands and mature hedgerows are immensely valuable for our birds. Particularly in summer, their dense thickets of vegetation offer shelter from the elements and safety from predators. These habitats also supply birds with a bountiful banquet of food to help feed their hungry chicks, and the cover to safely travel through the landscape. Although the songs and calls of common birds like Blackbirds (Lon Dubh), Thrushes (Smólach), Dunnocks (Donnóg) and Chaffinches (Rí Rua) still fill us with delight at this time of year, many of our migratory birds or less conspicuous species bring new sounds to the choir. Some of the summer highlights from these habitats include the descending tones of a Willow Warbler (Ceolaire Sailí), Black Caps (Caipín Dubh) bouncing through the treetops, the vibrant colours of a Siskin (Siscín), tiny Long-tailed Tits (Meantán Earrfhada) creeping through the foliage, or Spotted Flycatchers (Cuilire Liath) zipping between branches.

Woodland and hedgerows are vital habitats for some of our best singers, including blackbirds, dunnocks, spotted flychatchers and willow warblers.

2. Summer Flora

Summer is also peak flowering season for Iveragh’s plants. They fill the landscape with vivid whites, yellows, pinks, purples, blues and greens. With a long coastline, many hedgerows and ditches, wildlife-rich farmland, woodland, bogs and heath, there is a great diversity of flora on Iveragh, including some very rare Lusitanian flora.

Eyebright (glanrosc) growing among wild thyme (Tim chreige)

3. Insect Activity

5. Summer Walks

Of course all of the many walking trails on Iveragh are worth exploring at any time of year, below we have included a selection in various locations across the peninsula where you might be able to get away from the crowds and enjoy some of Iveragh’s beautiful summer widlife. For more walking guides, see the Explore section.

You can view the map using a web browser or the Google maps app, just click on the square icon in the top right-hand corner. To view it within this page, click on the square in the top right.

Further down the page, there are summaries of each walk.

Beentee Loop

For a detailed guide to the 10km Beentee Loop, which starts and finishes in the town of Cahersiveen, see our guide to the trail here.

The sounds of summer are a delight on this trail: birdsong from the treetops and hedgerows, the gentle buzzing of bees busily gathering pollen from flower heads, crickets hiding amongst bushes and grasses, farm animals grazing lazily about the fields, and the quiet trickling of streams.

With such a diverse set of habitats along the trail, you will encounter many kinds of wildlife. A short break near a pond or stream can bring sightings of Dragonflies (Snáthaid Mhór) or Hoverflies (Beach Gabhair) zipping through the air, a Frog (Frog) rustling through the vegetation, or flocks of Linnets (Gleoiseach) or Goldfinches (Lasair Choille) emerging from a hedgerow. Stonechats (Caislín Cloch) and Meadow Pipits (Riabhóg Mhóna) find areas to nest in the uplands among the low-growing Grasses (Féar), Heathers (Fraoch) or Gorse (Aiteann). Kestrels (Pocaire Gaoithe) often hover overhead in search of small birds, rodents or insects. Beentee’s uplands, pastures and banks of earth or stone can host impressive flocks of rare Red-billed Choughs (Cág Cosdearg) feeding on invertebrates that dwell in the soil.

Visit www.cahersiveen.ie for more information on your stay in the area. Whether your interest is history, water sports, leisurely strolls, seafood dining or locally made goods, Cahersiveen has something for you.
Knockeenawaddra & Pound Loops

For a detailed guide to the 7.5km Pound Loop and the 8.5km Knockeenawaddra Loop, which both start and finish outside of Portmagee, explore our trail guides here.

The highlight of these trails in summer are the earth banks and hedgerows that line the roadways and farmland. These habitats provide a wonderful splash of colour to the trail with a fantastic mix of native plants in flower: Hawthorn (Sceach Gheal), Gorse (Aiteann), Heather (Fraoch), Foxglove (Lus Mór), Purple Loosestrife (Créachtach), Goldenrod (Slat Óir), Ragwort (Buachalán Buí), Sheep’s-bit Scabious (Duán na gCaorach), Bramble (Dris), and a whole host of Grasses (Féar) and Ferns (Raithneach).

These habitats that are so rich in plant diversity are a haven for wildlife – and on these trails, they support an incredible array of insects and other invertebrates. Butterflies are particularly abundant, with up to seven species occurring over less than a kilometre! These include the Green-veined White (An Bhánóg Uaine), Small Tortoiseshell (An Ruán Beag), Painted Lady (An tÁilleán), Red Admiral (An tAimiréal Dearg), Speckled Wood (An Breacfhéileacán Coille), Meadow Brown (An Donnóg Féir), and even the endangered Wall (Donnóg an Bhalla) butterfly.

If you're looking for refreshments after your walk, you may need to pre-book a table in one of the busy bars or restaurants in Portmagee, but there are plenty of places to have a refreshing swim in the sheltered Portmagee Channel while you wait.
Reenroe Beach and Emlagh Loop

The 7km Emlagh Loop Walk takes you from Reenroe car park along the strand to the Inny Estuary through coastal farmland, blanket bog, conifer plantations and quiet country roads. The Ballinskelligs Bay and Inny Estuary ‘Special Area of Conservation’ (SAC) supports some exceptionally rare habitats.

Look for stranded jellyfish along this flat stretch of coastline. You are most likely to see the Moon Jellyfish (Smugarile Róin), the Compass Jellyfish (Smugarile an Chompáis) and the Crystal Jellyfish. This shoreline is also a lovely place to look out for burrowing animals such as masked crabs, moonsnails, sea potatoes and the curled loops created by lugworms as they burrow in the sand.

The salt marshes and wider lagoon area are also a ‘Special Area of Conservation’ (SAC). Sit silently for a few minutes in summer and you are bound to see (or hear!) an incredible array of birds, such as Sedge Warblers (Ceolaire Cíbe), Grasshopper Warblers (Ceolaire Casarnaí), Reed Buntings (Gealóg Ghiolcaí), Stonechats (Caislín Cloch), Herons (Corr Réisc), Egrets (Éigrit Bheag), and even opportunistic Kestrels (Pocaire Gaoithe) or Sparrowhawks (Spioróg). Other species, such as Meadow Pipits (Riabhóg Mhóna), Rock Pipits (Riabhóg Chladaigh) and Skylarks (Fuiseog) reside at the small section of sand dune near the mouth of the estuary.

On a warm summer’s day on the Emlagh Loop you are likely to see a range of butterflies. Further illustrating the area’s importance to wildlife, you may encounter rarer butterflies such as the ‘Vulnerable’ Dark Green Fritillary (An Fritileán Dúghlas) or the ‘Endangered’ Wall (Donnóg an Bhalla).

The plant communities change dramatically, as you move from the coast, through the farmland and over the blanket bogs. At the coast, mixtures of salt-tolerant plants, such as Rock Samphire (Craobhraic), Sea Spurge (Bainne Léana), Sea Thrift (Nóinín an Chladaigh) and Kidney Vetch (Méara Muire) appear on cliffs, dunes or from cracks in the rocks. Among the hedgerows, purple Thistles (Feochadán), Knapweed (Minscoth) and Foxglove (Lus Mór) are accompanied by yellow Willows (Saileach), Dandelions (Caisearbhán), Trefoils (Seamair or Crobh) and Goldenrod (Slat Óir), while the Grasses (Féar), Brambles (Dris) and Ferns (Raithneach) add the finishing touches to an already vibrant habitat! An entirely different set of plants grow in our bogs, with blankets of Purple Moor-grass (Fionnán) complimented by the white puffs at the tips of Cotton Grass (Ceannbhán), the intricate yellow flowers of Bog Asphodel (Sciollam na Móna), delicate pinks and purples of low-growing Heathers (Fraoch), and even sponge-like hummocks of Sphagnum (Sfagnam) mosses.
Lomanagh and Fermoyle Loops

For a guide to the 10km Lomanagh Loop Walk, explore our trail guide here.
The 14km Fermoyle Loop Walk is likely to take more than four hours. Both loops follow a mix of tarmac roads, forestry roads, sheep-grazed farmland, and boggy hillsides. The area is rich in geological features, heritage, and sweeping views.

In mid-summer, a variety of common songbirds and countryside birds will keep you company along these trails, with the songs of Blackbirds (Lon Dubh), Thrushes (Smólach), Willow Warblers (Ceolaire Sailí) and Chiffchaffs (Tiuf-teaf) really standing out from the crowd. Although often hidden within the trees and hedgerows, Robins (Spideog), Wrens (Dreoilín), Goldfinches (Lasair Choille), Linnets (Gleoiseach), Chaffinches (Rí Rua), Blue Tits (Meantán Gorm), Great Tits (Meantán Mór) and Stonechats (Caislín Cloch) are also ever-present. Overhead, you will see Swallows (Fáinleog), House Martins (Gabhlán Binne), Wood Pigeons (Colm Coille), Collared Doves (Fearán Baicdhubh), and a variety of Crows (Caróg). Becoming familiar with each species’ call or flight pattern is always a fun way to pass the time.

Both loop walks start and end in Sneem - a beautiful little town divided by the River Sneem and surrounded by spectacular landscapes, including Kenmare Bay and the Dunkerron Mountains. For more information, visit www.sneem.ie.
Kimego

The woodland at Kimego, Over the Water from Cahersiveen has wide paths where you can bring your dog on a lead and enjoy the lovely views, look for red-billed chough (Cag cosdearg) nesting in the old peat works, and listen for birds among the wide mixture of woodland.

Perhaps the best thing about a walk at Kimego in the summer is the possibility to stop off at Cuas Crom on the way home for a cooling dip in this sheltered cove that opens out into Dingle Bay.

4. Amphibians and Reptiles

Frog spawn can sometimes be found as early as late winter. Each black dot is a frog embryo which will soon break free from the spawn and begin their metamorphosis from tadpoles to frogs.

Iveragh is fortunate to be home to one of Ireland's most endangered amphibians, the Natterjack Toad.

A beautifully camouflaged Common Frog. Spring is a great time to see them on the move as they travel to and from mating pools.

As early as January, a strange sound begins to fill the night-time air. This sound grows louder and more members join the chorus as spring signals the beginning of the mating season of our Common Frogs (Frog). Ponds, pools, puddles, every patch of still and shallow fresh water will be commandeered by amorous frogs. The smaller males clinch the females in a hold called ‘amplexus’ and large clumps of frog spawn form in huge volumes from these mating pairs. This behaviour can happen sporadically over the early spring months but just as quickly as they gathered, the frogs disperse back to leading a largely secretive existence. Their Latin name Rana temporaria, hints at this lifestyle, temporaria referring to this momentary social period of their lives. Many of their spawn ground will become dry by the time summer arrives so it will be a speedy childhood for the tadpoles that wriggle free, 3-4 weeks after spawning. The metamorphosis of frogs is one of the most extraordinary wildlife transformations we can see on Iveragh: the appearance of hind legs, fore legs, the absorbing of their tail or that embarrassing teenage photo of a perfect mini frog that still has a short tail. This is an energy sapping change, and the growth of these tadpoles to froglets is timed perfectly to coincide with the food that spring provides.

Iveragh is home to Ireland’s rarest amphibian, the Natterjack Toad (Cnádán). Natterjacks are Ireland’s only native toad and are present in just a small number of protected areas. Iveragh has a handful of these sites and it is with the work of local landowners, the National Parks and Wildlife Service and dedicated experts, that allow this enigmatic animal to cling on. They are the last of our amphibians to emerge from hibernation which, for natterjacks, is usually spent deep in burrows within sand dunes, or where dunes merge into heath. It is very important not to disturb their habitats or behaviours but, if you do happen to find one, they can be distinguished from frogs by a few obvious features. Natterjacks have a distinctive yellow stripe along their spines and ‘warty’ skin, both of which are absent in frogs.

The most notable difference will be if you are lucky enough to see a natterjack on the move. Sometimes called a ‘running toad’, natterjacks ‘walk’ and stroll over vegetation while frogs hop using their elongated hind limbs. Largely nocturnal, these toads have a raucous ‘churrr’ call which can travel long distances during the mating season. Unlike the clumps which are formed by frogs, natterjack toad spawn appears in long single strings. If you are extraordinarily lucky and find some of these strings in your local area, then please leave it undisturbed and report it to your local NPWS ranger.

Adult Smooth Newts move from the land to shallow ponds in spring to begin mating. Here you can see a male (with spots) pursuing a female (light brown). Note his tail quivering at 14 seconds - part of the courtship behaviour.

Amphibians include frogs, toads and newts and they are a group of animals which share unique physical features and behaviours. They breathe through their skin, which is thin and needs to stay moist, and are ‘ectotherms’, meaning their body temperature is controlled by their environment. The third, and arguably the cutest, amphibian that can be found on Iveragh is the Smooth Newt (Earc Sléibhe). A common misconception is that newts spend all their lives in fresh water but, similar to the common frog and natterjack toad, adults spend much of their year on land and only return to water when it’s time to breed – spring. Females are light brown in colour while a breeding male is adorned with a wavy edged crest running the length of its spine. You won’t hear any mating calls, newt mating is an underwater endeavour, and it is believed the male emits a scent, or pheromone, which he wafts towards a female using a motion with his tail. Chances are you will never see a newt egg. The female takes great effort to conceal them by reversing onto a blade of vegetation, laying an egg on the surface, and then delicately folding the leaf over using her hind legs to conceal it. When the eggs hatch, the young fall to the base of the pool where they hide from predators in the silt. These nymphs have external gills to allow them to breathe underwater. Their metamorphosis starts with the growth of fore limbs, then hind limbs, the absorption of their gills and then a move onto land – these young newts are known as efts.

The Common Lizard is Ireland's only native terrestrial reptile. They emerge from their winter hibernations when the warm touch of spring entices them out of their hiding places.

While we may have some exciting reptiles visiting Irish waters in the form of turtles, Ireland is home to just one native terrestrial reptile – the Common Lizard (Laghairt Choiteann). Present since the last ice age, this remarkable lizard is well adapted to our cool, damp climate. Hibernating over winter helps them avoid the worst of our weather but, once things begin to warm up, these lizards emerge in early spring. The males are the first to peep out their heads from their winter slumber before the females and last year’s young follow. They rely on the warmth of the sun to raise their body temperature, so you might find them ‘basking’ on old stone walls or logs in south-facing landscapes. When they are warmed up, they move quickly in their environment, chasing spiders, flies, a mate or a rival. Mating occurs in spring and can be a violent affair. Males will fight each other for a female and males hold the female with a firm bite during mating.

While lizard mating occurs in spring, you won't see the tiny baby lizards until August.

While their amphibian cousins laid their spawn/eggs at the time of mating, the story of the common lizard is a different tale. One of the adaptations these lizards utilise to survive in cooler climates is not to lay eggs like those lizards and snakes found elsewhere. They have live young. Their scientific name is Zootoca vivipara, the first word being Greek and the second being Latin but both meaning ‘live birth’. The female stores the young internally and spends more time basking in the sun to aid their development. When they arrive in a thin membrane in August, they are ready to fend for themselves. A bit like frogs and toads, newts and lizards are sometimes mistaken for each other. Although they have been occasionally seen swimming, lizards are rarely found in water like newts. Newts move slowly on land and have smooth skin, while lizards move quickly and have scales. We would never recommend you handle any wildlife but, if you happen to come across a dead one or get a close-up photograph of one, you will notice that lizards have five toes on their front feet while smooth newts only have four.

Back to Themed Routes

Summer on Iveragh

1. Breeding Birds

2. Summer Flora

3. Insect Activity

5. Summer Walks

Beentee Loop

Knockeenawaddra & Pound Loops

Reenroe Beach and Emlagh Loop

Lomanagh and Fermoyle Loops

Kimego

4. Amphibians and Reptiles