Rainforests of Iveragh
A rare treasure of the Atlantic coast
There’s something special about spending time in Ireland’s temperate Atlantic rainforests. Maybe it’s the biodiversity they host or how each woodland has its own unique feel, changing with the seasons. Perhaps it’s the sounds, smells, textures, and sights of these habitats cloaked in green and dripping with life. Maybe it’s the primal feeling of encountering what much of Ireland was like millennia ago. Given how rare temperate rainforest is today, these experiences are a privilege. It is most likely a combination of the above, and perhaps it’s different for everyone. Whatever it is, there are pockets of temperate rainforest around the Iveragh peninsula in Kerry that are well worth exploring.
Bluebells and mosses line the paths of Carhan Woods in spring.
The conditions for a temperate rainforest to form
Anyone who has spent any time on the Iveragh peninsula knows just how wet and misty it gets, and that even the summer isn’t an escape from these somewhat unwelcome soaks. It is exactly this amount, and consistency, of rainfall that creates the humid conditions where a rainforest can form. The humidity of the air allows plants to grow on the trunks and branches of trees without being rooted directly into soil. These plants are known as epiphytes and are an important part of rainforest ecology.
But there is another key factor that defines temperate rainforest – temperature. While we do get some very warm days here during the summer, and a few finger-tingling days in winter, on average the temperature across the year is relatively stable. This “goldilocks” temperature means that frosts and heatwaves are uncommon, allowing sensitive wildlife to flourish.
Temperate rainforests (as opposed to tropical rainforests) are rare globally, but are also found in north-west Scotland, New Zealand, Patagonia and Japan, among other places. The species you’ll find will vary by region, and Iveragh’s woodlands have their own identity.
Birch trees and ivy are two common species in Iveragh’s woodland
The wildlife of the rainforest
As Iveragh juts right out into the Atlantic Ocean, it experiences some strong winds. This wind shapes the canopies of trees and results in a forest that can often be shorter in stature than more inland sites.
The birch (beithe) tree is the most common tree in the woodlands of the Iveragh peninsula. Birch is a great tree for pioneering new open land and creating rainforest. It has shining bark of bronze, changing to cream and silver as it ages and produces an abundance of small wind-blown, butterfly-shaped seeds each autumn. Hazel (Coll) is probably the second most common tree in Iveragh’s rainforests. It has multiple stems, bowing out from the centre, often forming the highest canopy level themselves. A close look at their bark reveals a diversity of lichens such as the script lichens appearing like minute and garbled calligraphy on the hazels’ bark. Oak (Dair) also stands mighty and centennial in Iveragh rainforests. The Irish name for Valentia Island ‘An Dairbhre’ means oak isle – indicating a past where oaks were much more common. Other trees include the willows (saileach), blackthorn (draighean), hawthorn (Sceach ghael), rowan (ruadhán), ash (fuinseoige), and the rare occurrence of the Strawberry tree. The evergreen holly (cuileann) has spiked leaves and produces red berried in autumn and winter, which are eaten by woodland birds.
The fallen leaves of birch, holly and willow - 3 common species on Iveragh
Blackthorn / draighean, with its white blossoms in early spring.
The lush green growth of new hazel leaves in spring
As mentioned above, a wide range of flowering plants, ferns, mosses, liverworts and lichens grow on the bark and boughs of these trees. When plants do this, they are known as epiphytes. I have even seen other trees growing as epiphytes. An abundance of beetles and other insects live entire lives in these canopies, feeding birds, which in turn get hunted by larger prey.
The leaves of bluebells and wood sorrel pushing up between the mosses before they flower in early spring.
The plants that grow close to the ground in rainforests are as beautiful as the trees themselves. Just before spring starts, bluebells (Coinnle corra) direct their green shoots upwards, wood sorrel (Seamsóg) arranges its folded heart-shaped leaves, and honeysuckle (Féithleann), entwined around tree trunks opens its green floral lanterns – all poised for spring to begin. St. Patrick’s Cabbage (Cabáiste an mhadra rua) is somewhat of a speciality of the Iveragh peninsula’s rainforest. A member of the Lusitanian flora, its restricted range and rosette-like appearance, make it one to look out for.
Where to find temperate rainforests on Iveragh.
Ireland was once mostly covered in forest, like those described above. Today, only about 1 or 2% of Ireland consists of native woodland like this. Iveragh has some easily accessible examples that you can visit. One such example is on the Kerry way/ Beentee loop walk as you rise out of the town of Cahersiveen on the northern side of the peninsula. Derrynane woods has some large areas of temperate rainforest as you walk out on the more remote paths. Closer to Derrynane House, the rainforest is peppered with exotic species planted as ornamentals.
Further examples can be experienced sporadically as you visit other parts of the peninsula – the lake and catchment of Lough Currane, contains some excellent rainforest patches, as do the areas around Kells and Sneem.
A glimpse into an Atlantic rainforest. Notice the ferns growing on the trees.
Enjoying the rainforest at a slower pace
Forest bathing is a process of spending time in forests to promote better health and wellbeing. This is often done by walking slowly through a forest. Iveragh’s temperate rainforests offer quiet escapes in which to relax and regain appreciation for nature. This practice can be included as part of another activity such as hiking or yoga.
On a wet day, the rainforest is a perfect getaway - imbibed with Atlantic mists, you follow the labyrinthine path through the forest – coiled honeysuckle at your feet, mossey glades ahead, and branches, bearded with lichens, in the cool air. The subdued sounds of the raindrops on the forest vegetation are all around you. A Curlew calls from a wetland in the distance. A visit to a rainforest can be a breath-taking experience.
Woodlands are lovely places to spend time in any season.
Please bear in mind…
Native Irish woodlands like temperate rainforest covers only a fraction of what it did a few thousand years ago. Remaining woodlands are very special places that we need to protect and allowed to expand, either through tree planting or natural rewilding.
Please refrain from damaging or picking plant or animal life when visiting one of these now rare forests. For more information on leave no trace advice, please visit www.leavenotraceireland.org.
